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Suzy Menkes Международный редактор VOGUE

Paris Fashion Week Fall 2015: Day Nine

12 марта 2015

Miu Miu: All Covered Up

“We started with everything that is big and fun,” said Miuccia Prada, referring to her big tweedy coats which appeared in many forms on the Miu Miu runway.

Then there were the crystal jewels, chunks of decoration dangling on breasts, and the giant collars – or rather, frilled yokes – that were another statement.

It seems that Miuccia likes it big – especially for her favourite Hollywood starlets, who sat front row looking like fairy-tale figures about to be engulfed by the clothes.

In contrast to earlier Miu Miu collections, the shoes themselves seemed reasonable: mostly light slingbacks or ankle boots, always adding stripes with a dash of colour – as if the collection needed it!

The set was like a giant bedroom, with faintly patterned fabric wall coverings. I guess you would need an enormous space in which to contemplate the choice of colourful coats, which would have filled full a wardrobe. They certainly engulfed the collection.

These coats were striking and colourful, following the tweed theme that has been all over the Winter 2015 runways. And if the Miu Miu tweed weaves were beige and brown, the miniskirts beneath popped with colour – say scarlet or yellow.

The frilled yokes were more rustic and innocent, especially with tweed dirndl skirts.

But for all the striped lines and smart plaid, it seemed like a long series of items on a single theme.

Rahul Mishra: Birdsong

There was a tweet – of a bird, not the digital variety – to close the four-week international season. 

Rahul Mishra, the Indian designer who goes far beyond his country’s fashion clichés of vivid colours and sari prints, sent out one of those rare collections of quiet beauty. 

Yes, there was a little flesh on view – and not just because of the nude fabrics that moved from the blush of a dawn sky to midnight blue. Part of a wispy chiffon skirt veiled a stretch of leg. But mostly, where there was a window on the body, there was a bird –  embroidered perhaps at the midriff – and a symbol of the village where Rahul Mishra grew up, in Malhausi, Uttar Pradesh. In his show notes he described the equilibrium between man and nature in that peaceful and sustainable coexistence. 

The designer has brought employment to rural workers in remote places, importing wool from the surrounds of Sydney, Australia to be transformed by Indian hand workers. 

The delicacy of the knits, which were so fine that they could barely be identified as wool on the runway, was breathtaking. Such pieces illustrated why the designer won the International Woolmark Prize 2013-14. 

I liked the perky sparrow embroidered on a wool and silk organza dress. But I was also moved by an embroidered pattern of the rooftops of village huts to mark the place that Rahul Mishra still calls home. 

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