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Suzy Menkes Международный редактор VOGUE

Jason Wu’s immaculate conception of fashion

12 февраля 2016

While the fashion industry worldwide is debating the how, when and where clothes should be offered to the paying public, Jason Wu was the still, small voice of calm.

The designer had one word to say about the collection that was one of the first to open the New York season: “immaculate”. This was Wu’s description of the short dresses, perhaps fancied up with ribbon fastenings and bows, baring the back. It applied to the textural effects of feather tufts and brocade finishes that gave a surface interest. And all this simplicity with grace will no doubt work for First Lady Michelle Obama, one of Wu’s favourite customers.

“Immaculately dressed does not mean having to be completely perfect,” the designer said, although the precise shade of green suede he chose for a narrow, sculpted shoe suggested a good deal of design thought – as did a pattern of skinny poppies bleeding downwards, and a shaved black fur coat criss-crossed with beige fur squares.

“I want chic women walking around, and it’s not about a trend, it’s not about day or evening. It’s just about beautiful clothes,” he continued. “That is my response to all the craziness out there.

“When it comes to luxury it has to be impeccably made, beautiful clothes. That isn’t mass market. We can’t compete with that and we shouldn't.”

The words of Wu, 33, are a small act of defiance against the luxury moguls and the fast-fashion giants. And although he does not have a world-shattering view of fashion, his stance is commendable.

Picture credit: InDigital

Jason Wu ·