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Suzy Menkes Международный редактор VOGUE

Victoria Beckham: Surfing to Success

14 сентября 2015

Victoria Beckham surfed into the big league with a colourful, classy and adult collection. It eradicated once and for all the Spice Girl tag - or any idea that she is not a full-on designer.

VB, as she is known, entered new territory with colour, pattern and longer skirts that made the few short dresses seem to belong to a different time and place.

Victoria Beckham spring 2016
Victoria Beckham spring 2016

Perhaps they did. Because it is noticeable that since Victoria stopped showing her junior Victoria Victoria Beckham line, her fashion image has grown in stature.

Most noticeable was the treatment of the female body. Maybe it is personal, because the designer is now 41, but there was a graceful cut of clothes that just kissed the figure. The tight corsets and taut mini skirts of her early collections are long forgotten.

"It's about attitude, rather than one particular look - I don't wear a lot of print, but I challenge myself, finding ways to make it work," said VB, whose ever-supportive husband David and eldest son Brooklyn were front row.

Suzy and David Beckham backstage at Victoria Beckham's show
Suzy and David Beckham backstage at Victoria Beckham's show

The show opened with checks - a gateway to the hibiscus flowers and urban surf prints that followed. That Hawaiian influence was not such a new idea, but handled in a subtle way.

A Victoria Beckham surfer print from the spring summer 2016 collection
A Victoria Beckham surfer print from the spring summer 2016 collection

My pen (yes, some journalists still use them!) went into overdrive as I noted a slender white dress with enough kick in the calf-length skirt to take a stride on wedge-sole sandals.

In this spring/summer 2016 collection there was freedom in platform  shoes and the way the square tops stood away from the body above below-the-knee skirts.

Then there were the soft-focus prints. It is a year since Victoria surprised her show audience with rose patterns. This year the prints were more abstract, but a bold presence. To this was added a judicious use of colour, such as a purple top and bright mustard-yellow skirt.

Victoria Beckham spring 2016
Victoria Beckham spring 2016
Victoria Beckham spring 2016
Victoria Beckham spring 2016

The only element that had not changed was Victoria's own look: an evening-style black dress worn with super high heels, as if she were off to a celeb event.

I asked her if she was going to follow the fresh look that appeared on the runway. "I will! I will!" she said.

Suzy with David, Victoria and Brooklyn Beckham with images from the spring summer 2016 collection in the background
Suzy with David, Victoria and Brooklyn Beckham with images from the spring summer 2016 collection in the background
показы · VICTORIA BECKHAM · Сьюзи Менкес · Дэвид Бекхэм · NYFW весна-лето 2016 ·