Masha Popova’s Spring Summer 2024 collection rages through London Fashion Week
In her sophomore collection, the designer finds inspiration in an unlikely muse, the monster trucks. While Popova remains faithful to the Made in Ukraine denim, the material that has become synonymous with the brand, new textile landscapes are explored.
With a show titled "Monster" early on Sunday morning, there was a sense of fear in the air. As the hangover from fashion week’s afterparties still pulsated in everyone’s head, the idea of a jump scare was more frightening than usual. But, as the lights came up and loud motor sounds echoed through the venue, the collection’s inspiration became clear: the monster truck. The automobile muse makes sense with the brand’s signature rugged aesthetic. Masha Popova’s second collection was a continuation of the narrative introduced last September, leaning into what has proven to be successful. Opting out of following the traditional schedule, the collection was an amalgamation of the brand’s proposals for the upcoming year.
The show opened with a classic look for the brand, a pair of jeans and a halter top in shades of black and grey, a departure from last season’s vibrant hues. As more of the collection is revealed the monster truck theme becomes obvious. Tire tracks, mud splatters and faded motifs permeated pieces like maxi skirts and jorts.
The Made in Ukraine denim was once again central to the collection. Masha Popova is called the denimologist of the fashion industry for a reason. Her rugged jeans came in multiple iterations, some with cut-outs at the hip, others so low-rise they revealed a cheeky surprise. But the denim wasn’t confined to just the trousers. From hoodies to boots and even socks, the material was a constant throughout the 34 presented looks. Even if the collection was exactly what you would expect of Popova, the designer managed to expand her aesthetic, exploring new textile narratives. Pieces in velvet in murky shades were a main feature on the runway. One of the collection's standouts was a velvet cardigan and maxi skirt set that explored an almost witchy imagery, with exaggerated bell sleeves and an open neckline.
Besides being riddled with fun pieces that will flood our Instagram feed sooner than later, Masha Popova’s second collection proved her capable of evolving her recognizable aesthetic.
Text: Pedro Vasconcelos
