Feminine and female-friendly
Spring/Summer 2015 is going to be a good time for women. And a great time for female designers.
The man/woman dynamic has been part of fashion since the age of androgyny. So, maybe the new feminist attitude is a stand against the revival of the Seventies, rather than the glass-ceiling-breaking Eighties.
Women designers from Phoebe Philo at Céline through Clare Waight Keller at Chloé have established a new attitude to building an appropriate wardrobe.
You don't have to dress like a man to take giant steps forward in a man's world. And hey! Even the shoes of today are made for walking!
Two different designers, at Rykiel and at Sacai, made it happen for women on the go.
The marine look of denim and sailor tops was just right for Rykiel, because although the brand had its heyday in the Seventies, in this collection the square-cut trousers were modern and the signature house stripes were given controlled exposure. Otherwise the clothes were bold, sporty and not at all the truncated schoolboy knits from the past.
SACAI: Back to front – and vice versa
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I tried a game with my two smartphones at the Saci collection. Knowing that Japanese designer Chitose Abe has a penchant for making the front different from the back, I decided to see how this collection would read if I broke it into two halves.
The result was fascinating. The collection shot from the front was solemn and purposeful, with the models in military khaki or navy and pin stripe, lightened with guipure lace and later with patterns of bright flowers.
The backs told a different story. Basically the collection was divided into strictness and freedom: as the models negotiated a blue mountain path of a runway and then turned to go back.
A tailored khaki top and skirt would segue at the back into tiers of frills; or a front smothered in green fur would transition to green leather at the rear.
Chitose Abe has built this front/back look for several seasons, but this was different: less frilly and without the Japanese Kawaii cuteness; more a tough, womanly surface.
This was a Sacai collection that expressed vividly with its military jackets and sailor looks the dichotomy between women’s hard and soft sides – and yet it was also a wardrobe of youthful and appealing clothes.