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Suzy Menkes Международный редактор VOGUE

#SuzyLFW: Anya Hindmarch's Prismatic Vision

22 сентября 2015

A kaleidoscope pyramid, made of mirrors, reflected each model who walked in. She was met with two extra reflections of her sporty clothes, geometric patterned boots and, of course, Anya Hindmarch's signature handbags.

These games of lines - let's call them "geo-metricks" - marked the first time that the designer has put her show focus on more than her bags, and also presented her work more seriously compared to earlier, witty shows.

There was a play on British High Street brands like Boots the Chemist, WH Smith and Eveready batteries, but these labels must be quite obscure for Hindmarch's growing numbers of international shoppers.

The sporty outfits, with their angular lines, either complimented or interfered with the bag fest, depending on the angle of vision. I saw the clothes as 1980s-inspired, and as they and the footwear go on sale in selected stores and on-line, they show that Hindmarch is widening her scope.

Some bags cried out for attention, especially those that the designer described as "leather marquetry".

Although the show was a chilly version of the usual rambunctious frolic, Hindmarch had a name for it: "Apophenia". It means "the unmotivated seeing of patterns and connection".

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