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Suzy Menkes Международный редактор VOGUE

#SuzyMFW: Marni – A Reflective Geometry

27 сентября 2015

"Movement, fluidity - but very architectural," said Consuelo Castiglioni about her Marni show.

The designer might have added that there was a mix of bright and dark colours and the illumination of sparkle - because these elements also represented the summer 2016 show.

Another addition might have been the location, which was filled with pillars and rugged stone walls, powdery and peeling.

The clothes were simple in their strong, straight or curving lines - but also heavy when the long dresses, open at the front, or the trousers apparently had an extra curtain of material. It seemed as though the clever geometry that created these shapes also added a burden.

What lifted the show were the colours of these graphically constructed designs. Consuelo used the shades almost like markers to fill in the geometry. There were primary colours: red, blue and yellow; and then deeper shades of mud brown, pine green, wine red and black.

I could not help but think of Marni's fruitful two-decade birthday celebration last year, when the show and the flower market held afterwards were bursting with nature's abundance.

This presentation seemed far more sober, even sombre. Yet Consuelo has her own clear voice whether it is heard in major or minor key.

Marni · Milan Fashion Week весна-лето 2016 ·