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Suzy Menkes Международный редактор VOGUE

#SuzyMFW: Jil Sander – Softening the lines

26 сентября 2015

It is pointless to see Jil Sander, the brand, only through the prism of its founder's past. The chic sobriety of Sander herself is no longer part of her label's equation since she retired from fashion two years ago.

Rodolfo Paglialunga is doing a competent job as head designer, and produced a gentle collection without any of Italian fashion's frequent sexism, which would have been a travesty.

Rather, the designer's concept of soft tailoring, the fabric slithering across the body, was a nice take on dressing for summer 2016. Add a couple of sleeves puffed up above the elbow and your brand is on message.

There was no urgency or excitement when a model wearing a high-crowned straw hat walked in her satin suit, although the white dresses that followed had flesh peeping out through cut-outs at the shoulders.

The success of the show could be counted in negatives: the soft and shiny fabrics were never girly; a pattern of splotches not intrusive; the blue or pink colours with a dash of scarlet never dramatic, even when sandals mixed pink and orange.

While still at the helm, Sander herself would offer occasional shocks and surprises as she took her brand on the long journey from strict severity to sweet serenity.

As a fashion editor, half of me wishes that the brand could rest in peace. However, Rodolfo is doing a nice job of moving things forward along clear, and pleasingly soft lines.

показы · коллекции · Jil Sander · Сьюзи Менкес · Milan Fashion Week весна-лето 2016 ·