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Suzy Menkes Международный редактор VOGUE

#SuzyLFW: Thomas Tait – Through the Peephole

22 сентября 2015

Keyholes were the entry point to the Thomas Tait collection. There were peepholes in the upper sleeves of a tailored outfit; holes punched into a scarlet patent leather skirt; and other circles filled in with intricate embellishment.

But what was inside the designer's head? His show notes made reference to keyholes as bondage hard wear. He also talked about mid-century collages, tribal artistry and industrial design.

What I saw on the runway was a souped-up 1960s/70s look, with the Courrèges-style focus moving from the Moon to a sex shop.

This is an exaggeration of how the vinyl-style shine looked on ginger and black pants or a skimpy 1970s jacket. But there was something suggestive in cut and fabric treatment.

I could see these clothes becoming cult purchases for the young and cool. But they did not match expectations of Tait as last year's winner of the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers.

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