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Suzy Menkes Международный редактор VOGUE

#SuzyLFW: Peter Pilotto – It's All in the Detail

21 сентября 2015

A "desert safari" and a "Mediterranean attitude" defined the Peter Pilotto show, in the words of designers Christopher de Vos and Peter Pilotto.

I saw the collection more as a sophisticated softening of the vivid colours and patterns that once was the essence of the duo's work - and an exercise in intricate embellishment done with the lightest of hands.

There were knits as fine as sea spray; some glinting with Swarovski crystals; and long, light skirts or soft trousers that showed a refined spirit in design and technique.

Without programme notes, I might not have been able to understand that the smocks and frills were apparently executed on Chantilly lace.

So far so delicate. Yet it is harder to define exactly what the brand stands for now that the designers have watered down the energetic craziness of their early shows.

Faced with the situation so many London-based designers have endured - crudely, how to turn showmanship into a buck - this Peter Pilotto collection has moved on in a clear direction. This included a new range of shoes to complete the forward march.

Неделя моды в Лондоне ·