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Suzy Menkes Международный редактор VOGUE

Scene by Suzy: Ermanno Scervino and Trussardi

03 марта 2015

Ermanno Scervino: Blue Sky Thinking

Any designer who can make a puffa coat look ready for a red-carpet outing has glamour on the mind.

Ermanno Scervino added gilded buttons and a taut string of a leather belt to the Snow White down coat that opened his show. And this, followed by a padded skirt puffed up under a taut black sweater, proved that the designer could offer a modern twist on traditional femininity.

In the roster of Italian labels, Florence-based Scervino is probably nearest to couture, displaying fine workmanship from a tailored tuxedo through to a houndstooth check coat to a fluffy fur skirt. Many of these pieces were decorated with a couture flourish, with inserts of lace or beaded zig zags.
The designer may have a classic vision of womanly dressing, but he tempered that with a pair of brogues worn with a trouser suit. A slim cocktail sheath faced off a cloud of chiffon.
This optimistic view of how a modern, multitasking woman might dress was accompanied by some blue-sky thinking. Or as Scervino put it: “I look at nature and I see blue everywhere.”
Trussardi: Leather on Her Mind
Gaia Trussardi, a scion of the family brand, took up the company’s origins in leather –almost her entire collection was devoted to it.
There was leather as light and clinging as stretch hose, leather that was second-skin soft for what looked like underwear, and a strapless top to partner tougher trousers.
Of course, there were also shiny leather boots and sleek bags. There was even a leather boilersuit turned into streamlined luxury.
When a patchwork sweater stepped out, it was a relief from all that skin.
The problem is that this collection seemed retrograde. All-over leather was where the company with its greyhound logo stood a decade ago – with the concept that every single piece must be skin on skin.
Some of the cutting and slicing of leather was formidable, like the evening skirt with a bronze finish. But do women really want an entire minimalist wardrobe in a single fabric?
Gaia needed to expand the knitted offering and cut back on the traditional Trussardi – even if we know that with this brand, skin is the thing.
Trussardi · Ermanno Scervino · Сьюзи Менкес · Milan Fashion Week Fall 2015 ·