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Suzy Menkes Международный редактор VOGUE

Public School Graduates

17 сентября 2015

When I saw the Public School collection from Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, I thought they might already be prepping for their new role at DKNY. Having bowed out of her own label, Donna Karan - or perhaps owner LVMH - decided to focus on a fresh look for the line that was supposed to capture in its style the landscape of the city.

DKNY spring 2016
Public School spring 2016
DKNY spring 2016
DKNY spring 2016

Intriguingly, the two designers, whose Public School line has won two CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) awards, are not alone in their new venture. Hector Muelas, formerly at Apple, will be the chief image officer for DKNY.

So where are the design duo coming from in their fashion approach and appeal?

Since Donna Karan was always focused on 'urban zen', the Public School pair seem to have what it takes: easy shapes, never hugging the body, layers of fabric and knotted fasteners to pull the shapes in. The loose, long lines and the feeling of unhurried elegance were reminiscent of The Row, that line embodying class and calm which has chosen to show in Paris this season.

DKNY spring 2016
DKNY spring 2016
Public School spring 2016
Public School spring 2016

Seen in their own territory, Public School's ease with the long dress, the diagonally striped pants and lines horizontal, vertical and at an angle, suggested the kind of urban view that DKNY must be looking for.

Speaking about their inaugural collection for DKNY, the duo said: "We wanted to explore the idea of the working woman, specifically in the setting of the city. Starting with a hyper contextualized idea of tailoring in the workplace but stripping it down and pairing it with the ease of classic American sportswear.

"We focused on details like a classic book bag strap to add a bit of a relaxed reference," they added. "All the while combining it with sheer layered lace. Ultimately for us there is not practicality without aspiration."

Public School spring 2016
Public School spring 2016
Public School spring 2016
Public School spring 2016
Public School spring 2016
Public School spring 2016
Public School spring 2016
Public School spring 2016
Public School spring 2016
Public School spring 2016
Public School spring 2016
Public School's desiners Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne
Сьюзи Менкес · DKNY · NYFW весна-лето 2016 ·