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Suzy Menkes Международный редактор VOGUE

Paris Fashion Week Fall 2015: Day One

05 марта 2015

Jacquemus: Child’s Play

“Doublefaced” was a theme that designer Simon Porte Jacquemus – known only by his mother’s maiden name – gave to his collection, inspired by Sebastian Bieniek’s photo series of the same name. But there was also a main, more poetic title: “Child of the Sun”.

Both of these ideas were appropriate for this collection of angular clothes, as if scissored by children at nursery school, and cheeks where a childish drawing would give the model a second ‘face’.

In his programme notes, the designer talked about a woman who becomes a child again, playing with make-up and clothing from her parents.

Backstage, the 25-year-old Jacquemus spoke of the death of his mother when he was only 19, and about how he cuts jackets as if done by kids in a random way.

The show was often weird, with a naked upper half of the body emerging from a paper bag of a pair of trousers, breasts and feet bare.

The surreal quality throughout the show was compelling – even if it had elements of Comme des Garçons, without that designer’s rigorous cutting. One piece stood out: a coat with a portrait neckline revealing womanly shoulders – proof of the designer’s cutting skill, and perhaps a sign of more grown-up clothes to come.

Jacquemus is one of 26 designers that have been shortlisted for the annual LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers.

Anthony Vaccarello: A Star is Born

“I want it all,’’ said Donatella Versace, seated at the Anthony Vaccarello show between Les Twins, a French dancer-model duo.

Donatella has made Vaccarello, a Belgian designer of super body-conscious clothes, into a star, by picking him to redevelop her Versus line. So it was a fitting tribute that almost every model who sashayed down the runway with a view of the river Seine had stars in her clothes.

But it was a rare outfit that was merely scattered in crystal stardust. Instead, Vaccarello scissored out stars at hip, thigh, back or hem of almost-entirely little black dresses, so that they became windows onto skin.

This might have seemed repetitive, but such was the ingenuity of the designer and so skilful his knife-sharp shapes, that the show became an exercise in imagination.

Just as the seen-it-all feeling welled up, Vaccarello changed colour to a ginger suede with cowboy fringing; added an accessory of tinkling metallic tubes (which looked heavy-handed). But he also played smartly with hemlines (up and down), and with metallic studs that might be on a short skirt inserted under an asymmetrical knee-length dress. Cut-outs at the side of the ribcage were another variation on the theme.

It will not be hard for Vaccarello to be a stylist to those other stars waiting for the perfect show-off but classy outfit.

коллекции · макияж · Anthony Vaccarello · Сьюзи Менкес · Paris Fashion Week Fall 2015 ·